The Best Dessert I Have Ever Eaten, Ever.

An excellent antidote to Dry January and New Year gastronomic austerity is to share your life with someone who has a birthday on January 9th. Preceding the excellent Mr Footes Other Leg at the Haymarket was a pre-theatre supper at Indigo, the mezzanine restaurant at OneAldwych. Here amidst 5* surroundings and attentive service, Executive Chef Dominic Teague has created a stealth free-from menu. Everything, including the exceptional fresh bread, is free-from wheat and dairy. But you wouldn’t know it. There is not a hint of worthiness, or a whiff of knit-your-own-yoghurt . The joint was packed with affluent coeliacs and vegans or perhaps with people who just fancied a decent dinner Somewhere Nice.

Where the menu left very good and arrived at fan-bloody-tastic was dessert. Assuming you take the chocolate option (ie that you have breath in your body) there are two possibilities. The first is a mousse of awesome gunginess made from (unspecified) Amedei with fetching chocolate bunny ears,  a delightfully melt-in-the-mouth honeycomb and a slightly uneventful almond milk ice-cream. The second was a soft Valrhona parfait surmounted by a thin sliver of cherry leather and accompanied by a stunning cherry sorbet. So this is where it gets tricky. For the ultimate dessert you need to order both the mousse and the parfait. Palm off the almond ice-cream and parfait onto your dining partner under some suitable pretence and then enjoy the mousse and the cherry sorbet together. It is an inspired pairing, the Jagger / Richards of contemporary desserts. If you wished to avoid spousal conflict you could also order both desserts each – the room is dimly lit and portions are modest. But that is what you should do. Very soon.